Pleasures of Seoul
The Covid crisis continues, and free travel seems a distant prospect. As we wait for the restrictions to lift, here we reminisce about Seoul and the pleasures it offers.
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Remembering Gwangju
After reading a novel about the 1980 Gwangju Democratization Movement, the writer sets off to the city where it all unfolded in order to discover the event's meaning for himself.
Dark Tour: Jeju Island Beyond Teddy Bear Museums
This month marks 70 years of 4.3, one of the worst cases of violence perpetrated by the South Korean state against its own citizens. A different sort of tour shows Jeju beyond the teddy bears and postcard beaches.
The Ocean Between Jeju’s Island Natives and Mainland Newcomers
Jeju Island is one of South Korea's most popular tourist destinations. But mainland 'settler's on the island say discrimination against them is rampant. Islanders being insular isn't new. But Jeju's painful history offers another insight into the insularity and suspicion.
Getting Lost in Alleyways and Seoul’s Childhood
Not far from the busiest center of Seoul, with all the traffic and political rallies, there is Seochon, a quaint neighborhood in Seoul. Its only arcade is a microcosm of South Korea today, at the intersection of rapid change and nostalgia for the past.
Best Meat-Free Buddhist Places to Eat in Seoul
Typically known for fried chicken and BBQ joints, South Korea may not seem like the friendliest place for vegans and vegetarians. Here's our guide to the best Buddhist places, a safe meat-free option for residents and travelers.
Travel Guide: How Difficult Is It Really, Getting to Pyeongchang?
Getting to the Winter Olympics in Pyeongchang, South Korea is complicated. Check out our comprehensive guide to make your travel as pain-free as possible.
The Palace’s Painful Past
When you think of 'traditional Korean palace,' you won't think of this white building. The Grand Conservatory has a complex past, now open to the public.
K-pop to WeChat: S. Korean Start-ups Want Chinese Tourists
From providing the ultimate K-pop experience to offering Wechat pay, South Korean start-ups are eager to attract Chinese tourists.
Pretty and Polluted: Jeju Overfilling With Tourists
There's more to Jeju than beautiful tourist destination. Welcome to its overfilling sewage system, depleted groundwater, and bulldozed gotjawal forests.
Broken Clocks, Rising Dust: Death of a Street
If the places with history all close one after the other, what will Insadong be? Watch our interview with the owner of an antique clock shop.
Seocheon: Overlooked, All the More Authentic
Seocheon was never on my list of places to travel. Is the travel experience more 'authentic' when the destination is more overlooked?