Eddie Park
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Pojangmacha: Tent Nostalgia

In Seoul’s central Jongno District lies one of the city’s last pojangmacha alleys.  Every day around late afternoon, hired workers take apart around two dozen wheeled carts lining both sides of the alley. Tents are thrown over steel frames; five-gallon oil containers filled to the brim with

Youngjoo Lee
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Funerary Portraits for Those Who Can't Afford Them

Portraits are required at conventional South Korean funerals. But in a country where over half of the elderly population live below the poverty line, more Koreans can’t even afford that. Here’s a photographer who offered to take free portraits of the seniors in Jongno, Seoul.  

Youngjoo Lee
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Nostalgia: Music for the Old

“Adding Memories” is a cafe in Jongno, Seoul, catering mostly to the elderly crowd, who remember the days decades ago, when people crowded around the jukebox or vinyl records. “Their song requests have a different level of longing,” the DJ said. Read more about Jongno, a

Jihyun Kim
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The Old Man’s Harbor

Everyday for the past twenty years, 78-year-old Kim Yun-sik has been going to Jongno in central Seoul. Around noon, he eats free lunch at the cafeteria where a Buddhist temple used to stand until the 1500s; until 5 p.m., he whiles away the time in Tapgol Park, and in

Seohoi Stephanie Park
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Reporter's Notebook: Summer in Tapgol Park

As my colleague Jieun and I stepped into Tapgol Park in downtown Seoul, all eyes immediately turned to us: two young women in a space where elderly people come to spend their free time. Many approached with a smile, looking intrigued by our presence, but wary of the bulky camera

Jieun Choi
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Seoul's Seniors Seek Refuge in the City

For a behind-the-scenes glimpse, read Reporter’s Notebook: Summer in Tapgol Park. 

Chris P
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Gay Jongno: Hidden in Plain Sight

The central district of Jongno is synonymous with high-rise office buildings, language academies, the bustle of Insadong, street barbecues, and end-of-week drinks. But a closer look will reveal another world unfamiliar to even veteran Jongno-goers, tourists, and residents alike: gay Jongno. Many are unaware that the streets of Jongno