Lee Hwan-jung wavers in his small boat, harpoon in hand. Looking back to shore, black rocks and dark waves sway under a granite sky. On this early February morning on the Jeju coast, cold water sloshes over his shoes. Lee is a self-taught fisherman from Seoul. Still robust at 43,
Known for its turquoise-hued water and coal-black volcanic landscape, Jeju Island at the southwestern end of the Korean Peninsula is a popular destination for tourists in and outside of South Korea. Most visit the island for its beautiful scenery and hearty local cuisine. Newly-weds used to flock to the island