"Jae-gaebal": Resisting Seoul's Brutal Apart-ization

Seemingly endless rows of concrete towers awe foreigners who come to Seoul for the first time. Seoul may have become the capital city more than six centuries ago, but few things survive from that time to convince visitors of this history. Colonial rule (1910-45) and the brutal Korean War (1950-53) have done their shares of damage. Equally guilty is a redevelopment fever that swept the capital in the 2000s, fueled by the belief that the only way to get rich is through real estate. All cities are