Pilgrimage to an Assassin's Grave

On the southeastern outskirts of Seoul is a modest cemetery where a defaced gravestone stands at the top of a steep slope. The grave has seen an unusually high number of visitors in the past few months, despite its out-of-the-way location and lack of sign posts. Bouquets of fresh flowers testify to a string of recent visitors. This is the resting place of Kim Jae-gyu, head of the notorious Korean Central Intelligence Agency when Park Chung-hee, former president Park Geun-hye’s father, ruled t