Dark Tour: Jeju Island Beyond Teddy Bear Museums

Jeju Island is where South Koreans love to get away from it all. Hundreds of flights a day deposit mainlanders hungry for escape, relaxation and selfies. With its sea-locked isolation, black soil and relentless wind, Jeju feels almost like a different country altogether. So it’s hard to believe that 70 years ago, at a critical point in modern Korean history, it was Jeju that took the hardest blow from an ideological conflict raging on the mainland. Over seven years, from March 1947 to Septem